Day Twenty Six was mainly spent travelling. We walked from our hotel in Florence to the station, but this time we took the back streets and it was quite enjoyable. I may have even detoured… More
If you haven’t checked out my short film on our trip into Canada, you should, it’s great, the links here
On another note, hello Vancouver!
By the time we got to the hotel, the sun had retired for the day and my tummy was starting to grumble. Although my entire being just wanted to flop onto the giant, white, fluffy marshmallow conveniently placed in the centre of the room, I fought through the pain, grabbed my purse and headed out the door.
As you may have seen from my video, Jordan and I were staying at The Burrard, conveniently on Burrard Street. The friendly host at reception suggested we checkout Davie St for a meal, being it quite close with an array of options. We went with his recommendation and made ourselves comfortable at a table in Banana Leaf. We chose well and were awarded mounds of fried rice and stir-fry vegetables. The waitress kindly warned us that the dried chilli’s in Jordan’s meal were extremely hot. Sleepy and incapable of heeding her words, we both grabbed a chilli and bit into it with passion. I was fine at first, but then as the heat intensified so did my desire to complete the challenge…whatever that actually was in the first place…
About ten solid minutes later, some crying, some laughing, some crying again and some sugar and water, I was able to eat my meal in peace. Oh boy, that must have been hilarious to Jordan whom spat his chilli back onto the plate mid-bite; I really showed him.
The next morning after a dreamy sleep, we started our exploring. We found this cute bistro on Granville Street, Twisted Fork, where we filled our bellies with baked eggs and percolated Canadian coffee.
Over the next couple days we walked a lot of the city. We spent some time setting up our Canadian bank accounts and our SIN for our jobs in Whistler. We also looked at a lot of snowboard gear, as I was new to the scene. We looked around Gastown and perused the markets of Granville Island. We took full advantage of our complimentary Steve Nash gym passes that we received from The Burrard. We also gave the hotels’ free bike hire a spin and zoomed down to Stanley Park; we rode all the way round! I was really proud of myself, as I hadn’t ridden a bike for many years; it was a success!
We took a second day to visit Stanley Park, with intent of exploring more inland. We spotted a couple squirrels scurrying through the parklands and admired the autumn leaves. I think the reason that I really loved Stanley Park was because of how peaceful and serene the environment was, even being in the middle of the city; a very enjoyable and wonderful way to spend our last day in Vancouver.
You guessed correctly.. Canada!
Jordan and I are packing our bags and moving our life across the world.
With jobs and housing organised, we need only get on a plane. A much awaited trip, scheduled and rescheduled many times; turns out getting married and building a house takes time, who knew?
So, here we are, jumping into a goal we’ve been dreaming about for years and getting ready to take on the 19/20 winter season in Whistler, Canada.
It’s been a dream of mine to hike Cinque Terre and see the incredible towns that make up this iconic landscape and we are finally here! As we were only staying in Cinque Terre for two full days, the plan was to take the train to Riommagiore, which is the most southern of the towns, and walk to the central town, going through Manarola and ending up in Corniglia. The next day would consist of catching the train back to Corniglia and continuing the same track through Vernazza and finishing our hike in Monterosso al Mare.
Up early and down to the esplanade for an outdoor workout involving some, perhaps, odd uses of playground equipment and park benches. It also seemed like a good idea to stop in at the shops, so we swing pass the local corner store and grab some breakfast and snacks for the road. Breakfast consisted of preserved peaches, muesli and yoghurt.
We take the rather expensive train to Riommagiore and call in at the information desk. She gives us a map and explains the many different trails. We tried our best to follow her instructions but actually ended up really lost. After an hour or so of walking back and forth trying to find the beginning of the trail, a passerby local notices our confusion and shows us the way. He points us in the direction of the path, which disappears over a very, very steep mountain. Hesitant, we climb a couple fences and tip toe through some gardens before our ascent.
A couple minutes into our climb and we realise that this track is absolutely insane. The stairs are so steep and seem never ending. The madly overgrown path leads us traipsing through vineyards and veggie patches. It was slightly disturbing not having passed a single soul.
Eventually, we did reach the top and yes, it was a true path. A sign at the top of the cliff informed us that in the 1920’s, this thoroughfare had been the only connection between the two coastal towns.. eep!
The view was amazing and I must say, I felt extremely proud!
Jordan and I continue along the trail as it dives into a steep descent. At the bottom of the trail we come across some makeshift gates and a large sign reading ‘KEEP OUT’ (then I remembered the person at the information desk had said that one of the main tracks was closed for maintenance.. oops!)
We stopped briefly in Manarola, refuelling with a slice of pizza, rice thins smothered in raspberry jam, and a crap load of water. We easily spot the next section of the trail and move with uncertainty, as to what may be in store.
The path seems all well and good until… MORE STAIRS!
The course took us through Volastra, as the shorter path that followed the coast was also closed. Once at the top, we suck on an ice block and cool down in the shade. The next section was mostly flat giving us nice views of the ocean. The mountain, on either side of the track, was covered in vineyards, and not a style I was familiar with. Instead of running in long rows, they were more of a canopy style that sat approximately a metre or so off the ground. Meaning that the fruit needed to be handpicked from underneath the trestle, as the fruit hung down; very old school!
Once we reached the outskirts of Corniglia (thank goodness), my legs started to get super heavy and the train station seemed aeons away. I flopped myself down another million flights of stairs to the platform and we board a train, taking it two stops on to Monterosso al Mare. Exhausted, we trudge down the esplanade towards our lodge for a nice long shower.
We dine close by at a local restaurant, ‘La Traverna‘, and try not to order everything on the menu. We got a pizza to share, some red wine and lasagne. In all honesty, it was one of the best lasagnes that I’ve ever had. The chefs used herb infused pasta sheets and the sauce rich and full of flavour and I don’t know why it was soo good, but it just was!
italy / day nineteen / cinque terre
We skip the workout this morning, but still hit the shops for snacks to enjoy on part two of our hike. Nice and early, we board the train back to Corniglia to pick up where we had left off. With yesterdays knowledge, we bring our earphones this time and I simply wear shorts and a crop top from the get go – after sweating like crazy in the sun.
The path between Corniglia and Vernazza was extremely busy, some tourists were even wearing thongs! We also had to buy a €7.50/e ticket to walk the next two towns on the SVA trail. This track was a lot more shadier, but boy, was it still hot! We chucked in our earphones for the most part and there were many flat sections in between the stairs, making it a very enjoyable hike.
Vernazza was one of my favourite towns. The main street was lined with street food vendors and rustic styled shops. Colourful buildings shadowed the street filled hustle and bustle of locals and travellers. Many boats fill the docks, surrounded by even more people and eateries. We munched on some really tasty pizza squares on the jetty, taking in the Italian spring air.
The path quiets down a bit, making the wacky trail a little easier to combat, and it takes us about three hours to complete the last section. The views were absolutely breathtaking, especially as we descended into Monterosso al Mare. We reward ourselves with some gelato and a dunk in the icy cold ocean. My legs soon went numb and the ‘ice bath’ was very enjoyable. Although cold, the water felt different to home, almost soft.
The food was just too good at ‘La Taverna‘, so we went back for another serving of their amazing lasagne.
Jordan and I get up early and sneak in a workout before breakfast, then pick up some freshly washed clothes from the dry cleaners and some food for the train ride to Cinque Terre. We finished packing up our things and said ‘arrevedici’ to Roma. The train took approximately four hours to Pisa, from there we changed trains towards La Spezia, then onto the private line, Cinque Terre Express. I love travelling by train and seeing the countryside.
There are five main towns that make up Cinque Terre: Riommagiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare. We got off at Monterosso al Mare station and stepped into another world; a magical esplanade overlooking a sea of multicoloured beach umbrellas and crystal-like water. After filling our lungs with the new vacation air, we headed in the direction of our hotel, where we soon dumped our luggage and took a stroll to stretch our legs. We spied a cool, rustic pizza place on our saunter and grabbed a couple pizzas for dinner. We set up camp on the beach and enjoyed some cheesy slices of heaven as the sun went down.
We woke up early and headed down for a nice leisurely breakfast, before Pop’s car arrived to take him to the airport. Although it was sad to see him go, it was a nice farewell and Pop made it to the airport A-OK.
Ostia Antica was on the agenda for today and we were soon on a train out to the ancient ruins. The large archaeological site was once a thriving city and main port. I had been there on some previous travels, but I totally forgot just how big this place was. We spent a couple hours here, walking the paths and not walking the paths. We brought some snacks and had a light picnic in the grass between the old ruins.
After some jam-packed days of adventuring, we were exhausted. We spent the night in bed after picking up dinner at a supermarket in Termini; one roast chicken, two salad bowls, pesto and a bottle of red wine. We watched the Fast and the Furious seven. It was very relaxing..
Pops last day in Italy was spent roaming rome (ha). We caught a bus down to the Campo di Fiori markets to checkout the scene. The place had such a vibrant buzz, full of lively street vendors and many locals shopping for fresh products, ranging from fruit and veg, cheese, flowers, nuts, chocolate, coffee, juice; the list goes on. I managed to get some really cool snaps of the atmosphere.
After some candied nuts, we used that energy to walk down to the Colosseum. Even though we had been inside before, we decided to go again as we felt it our job as tourists. It had actually changed quite a bit since we had been there it and ended up being really good; even with the swarms of people and ticket sellers hassling you with great deals every ten metres. They had removed a lot of the scaffolding and it was really easy to explore, with plenty of information boards scattered for anyone interested in learning more about this incredible, ancient place. We then grabbed a snack and walked over to Palatine Hill and the Roman Forum.
On the way back to the hotel, we looked at about twenty restaurants and had so much difficulty finding a place to go, mainly because the waitstaff were quite rude and abrupt or just completely ignored us. I think we sat down at two tables before walking out and finding a suitable place. Our mistake walking down the main tourist strip, but holy moly, watch out! All in all, we had a really nice dinner with Pop and spent his last night in Italy reminiscing about all the places we had visited. So surreal!
Snag some breakfast and we are out the door and on a train to Nettuno. Home to the one and only attraction, an American Military Memorial, that Pop had really wanted to visit. A short walk from the station and a few directions from the locals and we had reached the memorial. I grabbed some olives at a small stall to snack on.
The memorial was actually stunning. I didn’t really know what to expect, but it wasn’t this. The gardens were beautifully kept and thousands of white marble crosses stretched to the sky, row after row. We wandered the paths on this sunny and peaceful day and I remember watching Pop, so entranced by the place. It was really nice to see.
There was a visitor centre that was absolutely deserted, but full of photos, maps and information on how the Americans infiltrated Sicily and basically won the war.
After a light snack we then caught the train another stop to Anzio. Pop said there was an English Cemetery there, but unfortunately, we weren’t able to locate it. We actually ended up at a war museum, that was full of artefacts, newspaper clippings, posters and gear; the place was overflowing with history.
Later on that evening, we freshened up at the hotel, then watched an amazing concert at Saint Paul’ Cathedral, Barroque verse Vivaldi. The music filled the space, enveloping us in the warm sounds. I really enjoyed the second half, as it was mainly Vivaldi and I knew many of the compositions. Even Jordan knew a couple (one of the songs is used as the theme song to Chefs Table!)
Woke up and got straight into a HIIT workout on the small balcony of our hotel room, involving body weight exercises like squats and push ups. Managed to actually get up a good sweat, though super missing going to the gym.
Scheduled in today was a trip to the Borghese Gallery, as Pop had already organised us tickets 6 weeks prior. Pop knew the tickets sell out very quickly and have to be booked in advance, as it is unlikely you will have the opportunity to purchase them at the door. Thankfully he snapped some up for us to visit the gallery at 1pm. We took a train to Spagna where we took the Park exit and made our way to the gallery to check in, as you need to be there one hour prior. This gave us some time to wander around the lively parklands in the middle of the city. Everything was so green and the air was so fresh. There was lots of tourists, buskers, painters, dogs, runners and so many children. Lots of people had hired these 2/4 seater bicycle carts and were riding them on the wide paths around the park, under the trees.
Borghese Gallery was amazing. The once Villa, now a widely renowned tourist attraction, home to the Borghese collection of paintings, sculptures and antiquities. You’re given a two hour time frame to gaze in awe at the ceilings and explore the many rooms in this mansion. Although you are shuffling along with the crowd, it is a small price to pay for the beauty that beholds this place. Many of my favourite paintings/sculptures are housed in this very spot.
We walked back in the direction of the train station via the city, stumbling upon the Spanish Steps. We spent the rest of the day wandering the city, down to Vatican City, Castello D’angelo, along the river to Tiber Island, where we got a sweet treat of Tiramisu gelato. We kept walking until we wound up at Circo Massimo train station and headed on home. We had dinner at a restaurant around the corner from our hotel.
A little sleep in, some cuddles and a late-ish breakfast was very much needed for day twelve in wonderful Italy. Today’s adventures consisted of a day trip out to Tivoli to explore the gardens and ruins of Villa d’Este and Villa Adriana. Tivoli is a town in Lazio, 30km north-east of Rome. The train took FOREVER, stopping for approximately four minutes at each station. We passed the time learning Italian words and phrases through the Microsoft App.
Jumped off the train and took a fifteen minute stroll into the middle of town towards Villa d’Este. After buying a ticket, we made our way through the palace, admiring the beautiful paintings that covered every space on the walls. The path then spits you out into the top section of the incredible gardens, where you can wander around the park at your leisure, taking in the fresh air, mind blowing water features and scenery. Villa d’Este is home to the Avenue of the Hundred Fountains which leads you straight to the famous Fountain of Tivoli.
After spending a solid amount of the afternoon cruising around the park, we remembered the time and got our butts into gear. Once back up on the main street, we caught the bus, by literally one minute, to travel down the mountain to Villa Adriana. HOLY FREAKING MOLY! I forgot just how big this place was. No more than ten minutes away from Villa d’Este, lies the enormous, and totally underrated UNESCO World Heritage site, the size of a small village, full of glorious gardens and the most amazing ruins you have ever seen. Villa Adriana needs a larger part of the day than what we spent there, but it was incredible nonetheless. Hours and hours can be spent getting lost in this ancient, mystical place.
Unfortunately the day ended way too quickly and we had to trudge back to the train station before we knew it. If we had stayed any longer, we would have been walking back to Rome! Back at the hotel, we washed up and got a bite to eat at the restaurant downstairs. They had delish pasta and limoncello to finish – Pop shotted his..
To re-iterate, if you are ever travelling to Rome, let alone Italy, Tivoli is worth the time, money and the effort. Tivoli is a wondrous place full of culture and heritage. Before this lesser-known place becomes discovered by the masses, I urge to spend the day here, getting lost in the peaceful, awe-filled sanctuary.
I sneakily smuggled away some pastries for the road after our last breakfast at Corte de Francesi. We took a taxi to Brindisi airport (I swear they were going at least 140km/h), because we were flying past all the other cars. We checked in our baggage and boarded a plane to Roma! A bus trip to Termini and a short walk, and we were at what would be our hotel for the next six days, Alpi Hotel.
As soon as we arrive, Pop takes a nasty tumble on some of the steps in the hotel and bumps his head (which we later found out that he broke a couple ribs and ended up getting pneumonia; what a bloody trooper!). Not the best start, but we patch things up with a band aid and some ruby red strawberries, left by hotel staff with compliments, and continue on with our day. Obviously, we are very hungry again and grab some super tasty focaccias (Pizza Shop 341 SNC), which filled a good hole for the next kilometre.
Checking out the city on foot, we end up at the Trevi Fountain. It was amazing, but the place was crowded with so many tourists and people trying to sell stuff to you, that we continued on pretty quickly. Though, we did stop into an awesome store that let you build your own magnum ice cream; which of course we tried.
We moved on from the square and headed for the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, an old palace gallery and home, partially open to the public, in the heart of the city. We had accidentally stumbled on to this magnificent place on our previous visit to Rome. We got some tickets and a portable handset guide, and wandered through the many rooms of the palace, admiring the incredible paintings that filled the ceilings and intricately detailed floors, not to mention the hundreds of artworks strung up through the gallery.
We finished our day with a special dinner at L’eau Vive, a restaurant completely run by Carmelite nuns, to celebrate our first night in Rome. We started with asparagus and leek soup, then I had lamb chops with tomato, beans and this lovely creamy pepper and thyme sauce for main.