italy / day eleven / roma

I sneakily smuggled away some pastries for the road after our last breakfast at Corte de Francesi. We took a taxi to Brindisi airport (I swear they were going at least 140km/h), because we were flying past all the other cars. We checked in our baggage and boarded a plane to Roma! A bus trip to Termini and a short walk, and we were at what would be our hotel for the next six days, Alpi Hotel.

As soon as we arrive, Pop takes a nasty tumble on some of the steps in the hotel and bumps his head (which we later found out that he broke a couple ribs and ended up getting pneumonia; what a bloody trooper!). Not the best start, but we patch things up with a band aid and some ruby red strawberries, left by hotel staff with compliments, and continue on with our day. Obviously, we are very hungry again and grab some super tasty focaccias (Pizza Shop 341 SNC), which filled a good hole for the next kilometre.

Checking out the city on foot, we end up at the Trevi Fountain. It was amazing, but the place was crowded with so many tourists and people trying to sell stuff to you, that we continued on pretty quickly. Though, we did stop into an awesome store that let you build your own magnum ice cream; which of course we tried.

We moved on from the square and headed for the Palazzo Doria Pamphilj, an old palace gallery and home, partially open to the public, in the heart of the city. We had accidentally stumbled on to this magnificent place on our previous visit to Rome. We got some tickets and a portable handset guide, and wandered through the many rooms of the palace, admiring the incredible paintings that filled the ceilings and intricately detailed floors, not to mention the hundreds of artworks strung up through the gallery.




We finished our day with a special dinner at L’eau Vive, a restaurant completely run by Carmelite nuns, to celebrate our first night in Rome. We started with asparagus and leek soup, then I had lamb chops with tomato, beans and this lovely creamy pepper and thyme sauce for main.

italy / day ten / otranto / gallipoli

Started the day off with a great spread in the old tannery, then made our plan of attack for the day. We only had one day but we wanted to fit in the equivalent of two day trips. The lady at the reception wished us well, even though I’m sure she didn’t believe in us. Via train, we travelled to Otranto, a village on the coast. A short walk from the station through the suburbs and the path spits you out right in front of the most magical, crystal clear turquoise waters; extremely inviting for an afternoon dip.


We walked along the esplanade admiring the boats and watching the little fishies swim around the rocks. We temporarily lost Pop for a bit and went on a search. Lots of little shops lined the narrow streets, selling touristy gizmos and local knick knacks. We eventually found Pop after scouting out the colourful streets.




We take a brisk walk back to the station to catch the next train back to Maglie, to then go to Gallipoli, in the opposite direction. This worked well for the most part, until a heard of teenage kids suddenly appear on the platform and pile into the same little carriage of a train, heading to the same destination as us. Luckily they all got off about half way through and we could stretch our legs a little more.

At the final stop, the driver pointed us in the direction of the older town, down to the port. Although the salty wind whistled up the main road and it was much chillier, we couldn’t go past this ginormous gelateria. As we approached, the old town could be seen clearly as the mainland was separated by a bridge and a castle stood tall and proud, just to the left. The receptionist had given us some free tickets to actually go inside, which ended up being really cool.

Passing through the cobbled streets, we tried some pistachio liqueur and a traditional biscuit, taralli. I found this beautiful olive oil bottle that I bought to use in our new house. A leisurely walk to the point at the edge of the town, we grabbed some dinner and sat outside overlooking the ocean as the sun went down. Pasta and fish was on the menu.




On the way back to the station, I had neglected to realise that the trip back to Maglie was actually only half way by train and the other half by bus; which we spent another thirty minutes waiting for. Whilst we waited for the bus, very late at night in the middle of nowhere with very little people around, we got chatting to a friendly, frizzy haired guy holding a guitar and his friend. Turns out he was a pretty serious 16 year old musician, with big dreams. I participated in the music jargon and whipped out a jazz tune. It was really fun.


italy / day nine / maglie

Jord and I fit in another workout at the awesome hotel gym, then fill up at breakfast before some more train travel. Maglie was the destination, but we stopped off in Lecce on the way wanting to explore the town. Our bags went into a storage locker not too far from the train station and we walked into town. The town was full of gorgeous old sandstone coloured buildings and plenty of people. Unfortunately, we weren’t able to explore inside any of the buildings because most things were closed from 12.30pm til 4pm, which is exactly the time that we were there – of course! So we had a look around but decided to continue on to Maglie. We got some Gelato first though!




Once in Maglie, we talked to some locals at the station and they directed us to our hotel, Corte dei Francesi. Once a tannery back in the day, now transformed into a very comfortable series of room and communal dining area, elegantly decorated in a  bohemian chic style. We dropped our bags off and went for a stroll around the town.

I noticed there wasn’t many kids, the place was quite lively and there was an abundance of shops, everything from food and wine, to high end shopping. I was intrigued in a little bottle shop where an array of oak barrels full of wine, lined the entirety of one wall. The man working there ran us through a wine tasting, talking to us about the local varietals. From memory, we tasted Negroamaro, Malvasia and Verdeca.


After some thoughtful consideration, we went back to the hotel after having no luck finding somewhere to eat. The kind receptionist gave us some recommendations and made a booking for us. We were the only ones in the restaurant for most of the dinner as they had accepted us earlier than their opening time; as everyone eats dinner so late! I tried a dessert called Spumoni, it was delish!


italy / day eight / matera

After all the pasta and breads, olive oil and wine, I was so excited to get to the well equiped hotel gym downstairs, that I barely slept! Jordan and I headed down to basement and I had a really good arms session. We had a quick shower and then enjoyed a westernised style breakfast buffet, whilst going over plans for the day. Today we were going to Matera, in the small region of Basilicata, approximately an hour, by train, out of Bari. The ancient neighbourhood, namely Sassi, are a series of caverns carved out of limestone, nestled in a small canyon.

On arrival, we picked up a map of the Sassi and a punnet of strawberries for our journey. We soon made sense of the layout, breaking it up into a distinct New Town, Old Town, and in my opinion, Very Old Town. The train station is higher up and you could basically follow any of the streets down towards the main square. From there, it’s more of a wander and get lost kind of situation. I loved this, as the small number of tourists that were there just dispersed and you were solely there to immerse yourself in the seemingly small, but literally huge Sassi.






Mid afternoon refuel of pizza bread and fruit smoothie, and we were back exploring the Sassi. Closer to the ravine, deeper into the town, there were many empty grottoes ready for me to explore; semi fenced off but not really.



After farewelling the enchanting Matera, we ate at one of the only eateries we could find in Bari, Tankard Gastropub. We put some washing on at the laundromat across the road, whilst eating some delicious ribs and salad. The person manning the venue was lovely and so helpful with the menu, even though he couldn’t speak a drop of english. It was one of the tastiest meals we had.

To this day, Matera is one of the most incredible, absolutely magical places I’ve ever been and is seriously underrated. If you’re going to Italy and not sure whether to go, as it is a bit out of the way, I’m telling you now, it is 110% worth it.

italy / day six / siracusa

A big day planned with a serious amount of walking. We walk down to the island, Ortigia, to checkout some markets and the castle perched on the coast that was closed the other day. The markets were coloured with spices and flowers, we tried some cheese and honey, then towards the castle. When we got to the castle, we bought some tickets and had a look around, but they neglected to tell us that the actual castle was closed for renovations, so there wasn’t much to see. It was still a lovely morning wandering the markets.






Happy with our exploring of Ortigia, we set out on a long walk across Siracusa towards the archeological park of ancient Neapolis; roughly about forty five minutes. On the way, a tourist asked me, of all people, where the train station was. Through our significant mapping of the area and my great sense of direction (ha!) I was able to advise accordingly.

Three main sites scatter Neapolis; the Greek Theatre, Roman Amphitheatre and the Ear of Dionysius. These incredible sites make up some of the best ruins I have seen in Italy. We walked through the park and up some stairs following a path that opened up at the top of the Greek Theatre. On the left, many stairs/seats directing down onto a makeshift wooden stage, soon to be used for a production, and on the right, little niches found themselves in the semi circle of stone – of course we explored every one of them!



We stumbled onto our next stop, following a shady path outlined by luscious green trees and old wooden fencing; The Ear of Dionysius, of which was nicknamed by Caravaggio. Dionysius I was a tyrant whom ruled from 405-367 BC. I later learnt that a local legend suggested that he used this cave as a prison, and its acoustics, to spy on his captives, thus the name. I found this place absolutely magical. The way you could whisper at one end and hear it at the other was fascinating. I couldn’t help myself and stayed for a short Natalie Cole tune; Orange Coloured Sky – the acoustics were just too good.




A short walk and we were wandering around the Roman Amphitheatre. There was a heap of information boards scattered around the theatre describing what things were and what they were used for. The rest of the park lacked this, so it was good to get some insight whilst we were there, rather than later. I found the Roman Amphitheatre to be beguiling, imagining the gladiator fights that would have taken place.


A friendly waiter and some ham and cheese toasties later, and we’re off to some nearby catacombs, San Giovanni. We bought a couple tickets and waited patiently for the next tour to start. The guide was very informative and took us through the main sections of the catacombs as well as the church and crypt. It was much colder down in the catacombs and really eerie, especially thinking about how the majority of the tunnels were underneath the city of Siracusa.


A leisurely walk back to the vicinity of our hotel where we head straight to a pub called ‘Hops’. We munch on some well earned burgers; ended up costing us a hefty $70 for our cravings – I think we will be sticking to pizzas and pastas from now on.

a day exploring

Day 03 –

The first priority of the day was to get to Hiro-o to meet a flamboyant personality, namely Yuka Mazda, that would show us the Japanese cooking ways and some popular staple dishes. Once at the Hiro-o train station, I whipped across the road to a small bakery and collected a handful of sweet and savoury goods. We ate them for breakfast as we watched out for more confused wanderers also taking part in the class. Once grouped, we walked to her home. In the nice, modern apartment, she showed us her kitchen, tools and the recipes we would be learning in the class.

We started by making a mix for pork Gyoza and learnt how to roll the dumplings. We took turns cooking, learning the tips and tricks of the Japanese chef. We prepped a stock to be used for Gyu-don and made the best miso soup I have ever tasted. After eating the fluffiest rice and tasting some matcha tea, we gave our thanks and jumped on a bus to Shibuya.

We had planned to all go to a popular bistro for dinner located in Shibuya, but after wandering around for a little while, Pop unfortunately fell ill and needed to return to the hotel. After offering to go back with him, he insisted that Jordan and I still go to the bistro ourselves, as we wouldn’t make it back to Shibuya this trip. We agreed and said goodbye.

After a little shopping, we stopped off at Starbucks and sipped on caramel frappucino’s whilst browsing google maps for the bistro, 35 Steps. After determining the general direction, we quickly looked for a bathroom. Starbucks was on the first floor and the next couple floors looked like shopping areas. We caught the lift to the seventh floor (lucky number), where a lavatory sign was present. Walking out of the elevator, we saw we were in a completely different place. A magazine (super)book store combined with a stylish bar and eatery. I must say it was an interesting experience – I would spend so much time here!


We explored well into the night, immersing ourselves in all the chaos and bright lights. We walked and walked until we were sure we were going the wrong direction. A lit up Natural Lawson (convenience type store) stopped us in our tracks as we stumbled in looking for some hope. The man at the counter nodded as we spoke of our destination and reached for something underneath. Out he pulled the oldest, dinged up street directory I have ever seen and began to search. This started an intensive investigation of speaking to the other employee, using different maps and even calling the bistro. Eventually he gave up, took of his apron and just started walking. We followed as he spoke to us in perfect English about the time he spent in Perth and of how much he loved Australia. We even learnt some Japanese! On the way he pointed out another Natural Lawson store, which he owned as well. After a solid twenty five minutes of walking, we ended up at our destination, of which we wouldn’t have found without him. A hole in the world and absolutely no English in sight. He waved us off with a giant smile and disappeared into the night.

Lost for words. This place was awesome.

We descended down a spiral staircase that looked to be leading down to a dungeon. Down 35 Steps, we reached a door, entering into a short hallway – we were in the right spot! We took off our shoes and the waiter placed them into one of many compartments in the wall. He then proceeded to tell us, as we didn’t have a reservation, that we only had an hour and  a half. We agreed politely and sunk into the floor behind the bar that followed the outside of the kitchen. The chef in front of us took our drink order and recommended us some dishes. There was not one other soul in the entire venue. We started with a share plate of sashimi, which came out more like cutlets of fish. Open minded, we began to try the several different types of fresh fish on the plate. Surprised and delighted, we tried most of the food on the menu, including freshly “blow torched” mackerel and of course more gyoza. Every time someone walked into the bistro, all of the chefs and waiters would greet them with loud shouting exciting. I loved how close we were to the cooking and plating up. We got to see all the different dishes, ingredients and tools they used. Every table was filled with locals by the time we were leaving.

We wandered back to central Shibuya, aimlessly, talking about our day and in a food coma. As we continued, we passed a cute little shopfront, that had many little ornaments, statues and pictures of owls. I peeked my head in the window to find an owl staring back at me. Confused at whether it was real or not, I looked closer, another owl looked up at me from the floor, an owl café! We spent half an hour patting and admiring the beautiful creatures in their home.

Sad to leave the buzzing area of Shibuya, we strolled back to (what I thought was) the train station, until, once again, we ended up at Natural Lawson. I don’t know why, but I just feel drawn to the store. Like a homing pigeon! So we walked the opposite direction, found the station and got on a train, heading  back to our hotel for a well deserved sleep, ready for Tsukiji Fish Market in the morning.